Here’s how to use the Defringe Eyedropper to get rid of it fast:

Above: Here’s our original image, and when its zoomed out like you see here, you can’t really see the fringe, but it’s there — lurking — just waiting for you to zoom in on the image.

Above: Zoom in and you see it big time. Yeah, it’s like all over — purple, greens, and blues that shouldn’t be there.

STEP ONE: Adobe recommends for the best results using the Defringe Eyedropper, go the Lens Corrections panel (called the Optics panel in LR cloud) and turn on the “Remove Chromatic Aberration” checkbox (as shown above). Just doing this alone might fix the entire issue, so once you turn it on, check your image to see if the color fringe is gone (this works more often than you might think). If it doesn’t, at least turning it on it helps with the next step.

STEP TWO: At the top of that panel, click right on the word “Manual” to bring up the manual correction controls (seen above), and there you’ll see the Defringe eyedropper and sliders below it.

NOTE: If you’re using LR cloud, after you’ve turned on “Remove Chromatic Aberration in the Optics panel (seen above) you’ll see the word Defringe down a little lower. Click the little triangle over to its right to reveal the Defringe eyedropper (seen here).

STEP THREE: Click on the Eyedropper tool to activate it and now move your cursor out over a color fringe area (they happen along the edges of things in your image), and as you pass over that color fringe area you’ll be able to see the out of whack colors easily thanks to the floating color magnifier grid that follows the eyedropper around. Now just click the eyedropper in that greenish area to have Lightroom get rid of that fringe (what it does really is move the Defringe sliders to the exact right colors for you to neutralize that fringe).

Above: you can see that one click removed the greenish fringe and replaced it with a neutral gray, and you can see the adjustments it made to the Hue sliders and the Amount slider right there in the Lens Correction panel.

STEP FOUR: Now let’s get rid of that purple/bluish fringe by moving the Eyedropper tool over that blue area (as seen here). Again, once you’re over a big area of blue, just click once to neutralize that color.

Above: Here the greenish and purple fringes are both gone and you can see the eyedropper now shows neutral grays where there was purple fringe just a moment ago.

Above: Here’s a before/after after removing the Chromatic Aberrations (the fix is much more obvious when you see it large on your own screen in Lightroom).

Hope you found that helpful.

I have two big revelations over on my other blog today…

The first one may shock and surprise you (some may even unfollow me), and yet the second one, sadly, probably won’t surprise you at all. Here’s the link.

Hope you all have a fantastic, safe and fun weekend, and I invite you to come back next week and spend a few Lightroom learnin’ moments with Rob and me.

-Scott

The post Getting Rid of Green and Purple Fringe Using Lightroom’s Defringe Eyedropper appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

The February 2021 issue of Photoshop User is now live on the KelbyOne site and KelbyOne Mags for iOS and Android.

By the way, don’t forget that we have moved all the Lightroom content from Lightroom Magazine into Photoshop User, so it’s now “The Magazine for Lightroom and Photoshop Users.” Plus, Photoshop User now comes out every month!

In this issue, learn how to work smarter in Photoshop so you can better protect your images from rainy days and Mondays, plus a brand-new “Photoshop for Lightroom Users” column by Scott Kelby, using Adobe Bridge with Lightroom Classic, adding warmth to your winter scenes, an in-depth look at the new plugin features in Photoshop, changing hair color, and so much more! We’re also very excited to announce that the Lightroom Queen herself, Victoria Bampton, is taking over the “Lightroom Q&A” column and Terry White is taking over the “Photoshop Q&A” column!

This issue’s cover image by KelbyOne member Jos V. Desmedt!

KelbyOne Pro & Plus members have access to more than 95 back issues of Photoshop User magazine all the way back to January 2012, plus all 64 issues of Lightroom Magazine. Not a Pro or Plus member yet? Click here for more information.

The post The February 2021 Issue of Photoshop User Is Now Available! appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

This one will do more for you than you might think. Check it out:

Hope you found that helpful. Don’t forget to catch Rob Sylvan’s excellent Lightroom column right here tomorrow.

Have a good one!

-Scott

The post Lightroom in 60-Seconds: Uncluttering Your Presets Panel appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

Heads Up!

I want to start off with a warning that one new feature replaces the old functionality for having a custom default setting for your raw photos, and as such your old defaults won’t work in this new version, so read on before updating.

New Custom Default Settings in Lightroom Classic and ACR

Forget everything you knew about how to create a custom default setting for your raw photos, and let’s get up to speed on the new system. If you depend on a custom default setting in your workflow you’re going to want to address this before you update to Lightroom Classic 9.2 (ACR 12.2). Once you install the update your old custom default settings will not work on newly imported photos (or when you click the Reset button). This will not affect previously imported photos (unless you click the Reset button).

The new system is found in the Preferences, on the Preset tab (the old menu option under the Develop menu has been removed). There you will find an entirely new panel called Raw Defaults.

Within the Raw Defaults panel you have three basic options for the Master control:

• Adobe Default: The same Adobe defaults as we’ve had in the past. Adobe Color is the default profile, and most settings are zeroed out (with the exception of the sliders in the Detail panel).
• Camera Settings: The same as Adobe Default except that a profile will be selected to match your in-camera picture style selection (instead of Adobe Color). So, if you set your camera to shoot in B&W (monochrome), choosing Camera Settings would honor that and you will see that a monochrome profile has been applied. Note, it just selects a matching profile it does not pick up any in-camera customizations you may have made to your own camera’s picture style.
• Preset: You choose a Develop preset that will be applied by default to all raw photos from all cameras. This will basically take the place of the old custom camera raw default option. You can include anything that you are able to include in a preset.

[Update – I have since learned that using Camera Settings with Nikon’s Z series camera bodies will also include additional in-camera settings beyond the profile. Perhaps this is a trend we’ll see with newer camera models as they are released? Time will tell. – Rob]

If you want to have a different default setting for each camera you shoot with, you’ll want to check the Use defaults specific to camera model checkbox under the Master drop-down menu. Once enabled, it brings the bottom section of the new panel to life.

Using the Camera drop-down menu you can select the camera model you want to create a custom default setting for, then use the Default drop-down menu below that to choose from the same three options I outlined above, but for that specific camera only. Once configured as desired, click the Update Default button to add that configuration to the panel. Note, if you need to set your defaults based on camera body serial number, check the Show serial number box and you’ll be able to choose each camera body individually.

My recommendation for anyone who currently uses a custom default setting is to create a Develop preset that does the same thing. Meaning select an unedited raw photo from the camera with the custom default setting, and click Reset (before updating to this new version). Any settings still applied are part of your custom default setting. Note which settings are included. Then create a preset and only check the boxes in the Create New Preset dialog box that correspond to the settings you want to include in your custom default. Name this new preset something obvious (like Custom Default) so that you can easily find it when you want to configure it on the Preset panel of the Preferences after you update to 9.2.

When you create your custom default preset you can leave Treatment & Profile unchecked if you want to let it pick a profile based on your in-camera picture style choice. However, if you want to always use a specific profile then you’ll want to include that in your custom default preset by first selecting it in the Basic panel and then checking Treatment & Profile when creating the preset.

One final note, the old shortcut for resetting to the Adobe defaults (useful if you had a custom default setting using the old method) has been discontinued in this latest update. So pressing Command + Shift + R (PC: Ctrl  + Shift + R) does the same as just pressing Reset, which is to reset the photo based on the settings you’ve chosen in the Raw Defaults section of the preferences. If you want a way to get to all zeroed settings and the Adobe Color profile, then you’ll want to create a preset that does that, and just click the preset when/if needed.

Now with More GPU

Lightroom Classic and ACR will now be using the GPU for lens corrections and adjustments made in the Transform panel to improve performance. If you are on a Mac (10.15 or higher) and have an external GPU, that eGPU will now be utilized when using the Enhance Details function.

Lightroom Classic Only Updates

Lightroom Classic got a lot of attention in this update, and I’m hoping it is a sign of Adobe’s commitment to continually improving and growing this application. Here’s a roundup of what else was added to just Classic.

We now have support for importing PSB files! That’s been requested for a long time, so glad it finally made the cut. With our cameras only increasing in resolution, not to mention the ability to merge multiple frames into giant panoramas, we’re all seeing larger and larger file sizes. Since PSD files top out at 2GB and TIF at 4GB, there may be instances where you’ve needed to use the large document format PSB. Unfortunately, up until now PSB was not supported by Lightroom Classic so you couldn’t import those into your catalog. Well, now you can. PSB still face the same limit for import as any other photo, which is that it can’t be more than 65,000 pixels on the long side or more than 512 Megapixels total.

If you are (or were) a Photoshop Elements 2020 user, you can now import your Photoshop Elements catalog into Lightroom Classic. Welcome!

Adobe has finally released an FAQ on syncing your Lightroom Classic catalog with the Lightroom cloud. I’ve been a huge fan of this workflow for years (and have written about it here quite a bit), but ever since the waters got muddied back in 2017 we’ve lacked clear guidelines from the mother ship. Here’s hoping this new resource answers your questions so that you can get the most out of what this offers.

Along the lines of un-muddying the waters, the Auto Sync button got a boost in visibility to help you see that it is enabled (you can even say it glows). Once enabled (and glowing), you’ll also see a message bezel appear informing you that whatever setting you just adjusted was just applied to x number of (selected) photos. That should go a long way toward preventing unwanted auto sync of settings being applied. If you are super confident in your ability to suss out when you have enabled Auto Sync and no longer want to see those helpful messages, go to Preferences > Interface and uncheck Show Auto Sync notifications.

Multiple monitor users will find this last Lightroom Classic only feature helpful. Especially if you have more than two monitors. If you only have a single monitor, well, you can just skip ahead (no one is judging you). Open up the Preferences again and note there is a new Display tab in there. On the Display tab you can choose which monitor you want Lightroom Classic to use for its secondary display when you turn that on. This puts you in control of placing that secondary display window on the monitor that makes the most sense in your workflow.

Ok, let’s see what’s new in the cloud.

Lightroom Cloud for Mac and Windows

The desktop app for the Lightroom cloud have caught up in its ability to export DNG copies if needed. So now you have the ability to choose from JPG, TIF, DNG, or Original+settings.

The HDR Merge and Panorama Merge functions gained the ability to run the merge function without displaying the respective dialog box when you use the new keyboard shortcut (this also works in Lightroom Classic):

• Panorama Merge: Ctrl+Shift+M
• HDR Merge: Ctrl+Shift+H

To access this “headless” merge, first select the photos you want to merge, then press the respective shortcut, and the merge happens in the background using the previously used settings. This is really helpful when you have a lot of sets to merge, and you just want to queue them all up in the background.

Lightroom for Android

Starting with the Android platform, we now have the ability to import presets right into the mobile app instead of having to go through the Mac or Win version and waiting for the presets to sync. This also means that mobile only users don’t have to resort to importing DNG files with settings just to manually make a preset from those settings. This feature will be coming to the iOS app in a future update.

Lightroom for iPad

A small, but potentially useful feature has been added to the Lightroom for iPad app. You can now view two apps at the same time in a split screen view. For example, here I have both the Lightroom app open to editing mode while also viewing my web browser pointed at LightroomKillerTips.com (where else?).

The trick is to have the Lightroom app open, then swipe up from the bottom to reveal the Dock. Then press and hold the app you want to open for a moment, then drag that app icon up to the right or left side of the screen to jump to split screen view. You can then drag the divider left or right to dole out how much screen real estate each app gets to have. Drag that divider all the way to edge to switch back to single app view.

All of the above mentioned programs gained support for new cameras as well as new lens profiles. Be sure to visit Adobe’s own announcement about the updates to get their take on the release (and what lies ahead). Adobe also maintains its own list of new features that’s worth a visit.

The post February 2020 Lightroom Classic, Adobe Camera Raw, and Lightroom Cloud Updates appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

Many people first get acquainted with the cloud based Lightroom app on their mobile device (Android or iOS phone or tablet) using the free Lightroom mobile app. You don’t need a subscription to use the free mobile app, which is great. However, without a subscription you don’t get the desktop version the Lightroom app or the ability to sync photos and presets across devices.

So, how can you import develop presets into the Lightroom mobile app itself? Well, you can’t, exactly. At least you can’t import the preset files specifically. You have to use a bit of a workaround by importing a photo that has Lightroom (or Adobe Camera Raw) settings applied to the photo, then manually make your own preset from those settings, which you can then apply to your other photos when needed. Let’s walk through the steps.

Importing a DNG with Settings

To begin, you’ll need a photo with settings applied to it that you want to save as a preset. Here’s a DNG file with some settings applied that you can download (and unzip after downloading) and use to follow along.

Before preset:

After preset:

The first trick is to get the DNG file to your mobile device. I used AirDrop to transfer it from my Mac to my iPhone, but you could use Dropbox, OneDrive, or some other service to transfer the DNG file. Note, many times the DNG files provided for creating presets will be compressed in a Zip file (such as the one I provided), as this makes it easier for downloading. It is easier to unzip a file on your computer than your mobile device, but there are apps for both iOS and Android that allow file unzipping on their respective platforms (search for them in the respective app stores).

With the DNG file transferred to your mobile device, here are the steps to creating a preset from the settings stored in the DNG file’s metadata:

Step One: Import the DNG file into Lightroom mobile app. You import this photo just like you would import any other photo from your camera roll or files location on your device.

Step Two: Once the photo is imported into Lightroom mobile you should see the settings that have been applied to it (as the original DNG may not show it when viewing it on your device’s Camera Roll). That means the settings are waiting for you to transform them into a preset. Switch to the Edit view.

Step Three: Tap the three-dot menu at the top of the screen and choose Create Preset from the menu that appears.

Step Four: This opens the New Preset dialog. You’ll need to make a few decisions here. The first decision is to give the preset a name. Depending on where you got the original DNG file from, it may have been named based on the preset/settings applied, but you can call the preset anything you want (its all yours now!). In this case, I named it “Warm Contrast White Border” because the settings warm up the photo using Split Tone, add contrast with a Tone Curve, and add a white border using the Vignette.

The second decision is how to organize your presets. By default, it will be placed in the User Preset group. Nothing wrong with that, but as you add more you may want to group them in a way that makes sense to you. I’ll leave it in the default for now.

The third, and most important decision is what boxes to check for deciding what settings to include. The simplest choice is to just check all the boxes. This way you ensure you are including the important settings (the ones that provide the “look” the preset is trying to achieve). The more daring choice is to only check boxes that have settings applied to them, but how do you know what settings to include? Lightroom tries to help you via the Select drop-down menu under the Preset Group choice you made earlier. Tap Select to see its options, which are All, Modified, Default, and None.

So you can choose All and just get on with your life, or you can choose Modified and have it only check the settings that shifted from their default settings. In my case, I chose Modified and see that it only checked boxes in the Light (for the Tone Curve), Effects (for the Vignette and Split Tone), and Optics (because I have my preferences set to include lens profile correction by default, which is not relevant to this preset, but it is a setting that was applied).

The benefit of only including settings in the preset is that it allows you to apply other settings to the photo first, and then apply the preset without necessarily changing the settings you previously applied (assuming you didn’t change any of the settings included in the preset).

Once you’ve made all of those decisions, tap the checkmark in the upper-right corner to complete the preset creation process.

The preset has now been added to the preset group you chose and you can apply it to any other photo in your library as you wish. While it may seem like there is a lot involved in this process, once you go through it the first time you’ll see it is not a big deal. That said, I’d love for Adobe to find a way to make it easier to just import the presets directly. However, if you find using Lightroom mobile useful, go ahead and and try the subscription so that you can sync across all of your devices and see how that works for your lifestyle.

The post Importing Presets into Lightroom Mobile Directly appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

Lightroom Classic is all about new camera support, new lens profiles, and bug fixes. However, the cloud-based Lightroom did also get a couple of new features that didn’t make it into the November release, along with the same new camera and lens support, and its own set of bug fixes. Let’s take a look at the newest additions.

Direct Import iOS

Possibly the most welcome and long anticipated addition to the Lightroom mobile experience (iPhone and iPad), is the ability to import photos directly from a memory card into the Lightroom app without having to go through the device’s Camera Roll.

I generally keep my Camera Roll pretty empty because everything I capture on iOS goes directly into Lightroom, up to the cloud, and then down to Lightroom Classic, so I’ve also been eager to skip the middle man and just bring in the photos directly. Saves me the step of having to delete the photos from the device later on. Here’s how it works:

Step One: Use the Camera Connection Kit like a card reader to enable your iOS device to connect to the memory card. You may get prompted about giving Lightroom permission to access (this should only happen the first time).

Step Two: Once permission has been granted, the device will be connected and you can continue.

Step Three: You’ll then see the contents of the memory card and have the ability to select the photos you want to import. This process seems way faster to me than it did before.

Step Four: Select the photos you want to include and tap the Import button to bring them in.

The photos will then begin being copied to Lightroom. Once the copying process has been completed you’ll be given the green light to disconnect the memory card from your device.

You’re now free to edit and share to your hearts content while the originals are uploaded to the cloud in the background.

It may be fair to say this has been a long time coming, but I am very glad it is finally here.

On the topic of iOS, I mentioned back in my post on the November update that the advanced export options were coming to iOS in the future, well, the future has arrived for that new feature too. After tapping the Share icon, choose Export As from the list of options.

You now (finally) have the ability to choose file type, pixel dimensions (based on the long side), color space, file name, and more.

Enhanced Shared Album Experience

We’ve been able to share galleries/albums with other people for a long time, and back in May 2019 Adobe added in the ability to invite other people to contribute to that shared album via the web. In this latest update if the people you’ve invited to contribute to your shared album they’ll see the shared album within their Lightroom apps.

If you click/tap on the Sharing icon (two people icon), you’ll see a new Shared with You section, and under that heading will appear any albums that you’ve been invited to contribute to by another Lightroom user.

This should make contributing to shared albums much more seamless and much more fun among fellow Lightroom users.

Well, that’s the important stuff for this update. Android users do now have the ability to view the author profile pages of people who have contributed tutorials to the Learn section of the app (this was already possible on iOS), so if you are exploring the great many tutorials (more added all the time) in the Learn section of the Lightroom apps, just click/tap on an author’s name to see all of the tutorials they’ve contributed to date. Enjoy!

The post December Lightroom Update appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

In this issue, learn how to fly high in Lightroom by avoiding the five biggest processing mistakes, plus Rick Sammon shares his five Ps for travel photography, using Guided Upright with panoramic landscape images, managing profiles, adding beams of light to your photos, and so much more!

KelbyOne Pro & Plus members have access to more than 75 back issues of Photoshop User magazine all the way back to January 2012, plus all 55 issues of Lightroom Magazine. Not a Pro member yet? Click here for more information.

The post Issue 55 of Lightroom Magazine Is Now Available appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

This simple organization scheme works for either Lightroom Classic or Lightroom (cloud version); it just that some of the names for the same things are different (don’t get me started), but I’ll tell you when they differ and what they’re called in each. Here we go:

STEP ONE: My first step is to import the images from my SD card to my external hard drive (I don’t store my images on my laptop — it’ll run out of space before you know it, so I carry a very small 500-GB Samsung Portable SSD drive with me on the road – that’s it above). It’s super lightweight and super fast. I love it! $89.99 at B&H Photo.

STEP TWO: Once the images are imported into Lightroom, I go to the Collection Panel and from the pop-up menu in the top right corner of the panel, I choose “Create Collection Set” as seen above. [Note: in the Lightroom cloud version you would choose “New Folder” instead, but they are the same thing].

When the dialog appears, I give this new Collection Set a very descriptive name (in this case “China Workshop Trip” and click OK. At this point, you’ve kind of just created an empty holder — there’s nothing in it yet.

STEP THREE: You’ll see the images that you just imported in the thumbnail grid of the Library. Select all of these images by pressing Command-A (PC: Ctrl-A), then go back to the Collection panel; click the little plus-sign icon on the top right, but this time choose ‘New Collection’ from the pop-out menu (in Lightroom for cloud, you would choose “New Album” instead).

When the New Collection dialog appears, name this new collection “Full Shoot” (as seen here). Make sure the “Include Selected Photos” checkbox is checked (so all the images you just selected will be included in this new collection), and where it says ‘Location,’ turn on the Checkbox for ‘Inside a Collection Set’ then choose the Collection Set you created in the previous step (in my case, it would be “China Workshop Trip.” Click OK, and this Full Shoot collection will now appear inside your “China Workshop Trip” Collection Set (so, it’s a nested collection inside your main Collection Set).

STEP FOUR: Now I go through and mark any images that are keepers (ones that are decent enough that I might want to edit them, work on them, etc., but at this point, I’m just quickly going through and looking for one that I think have a chance). I double-click on the first thumbnail so I can see it larger, then I press Shift-Tab to hide all the panel so my image is large on-screen, and there’s nothing else on-screen to distract me during my selection process. If I see a “keeper” I press the letter ‘P’ on my keyboard to mark it as a ‘Pick.’ If it’s not a keeper (a Pick), then I don’t do anything; I just press the right arrow on my keyboard to move to the next image. If I make a mistake (I mark one as a Pick, but then I change my mind), I press the letter ‘U’ on my keyboard to “un-pick-it.”

STEP FIVE: Once I’ve quickly gone through the entire shoot, I press Shift-Tab again to bring back all the panels. Next, I go to the Filter menu that appears above the top right of the Filmstrip at the bottom and I click TWICE on the first tiny flag that appears there (the Pick flag filter). NOTE: if you don’t see three flags, and some stars, and color labels; they filters are hidden, so on the far right side of the Filmstrip, click directly on the word “Filter:” the those icons will pop out into place. When you click the leftmost flat (the white pick flag) it turns on the filter so only images you ‘Picked’ (your keepers) are now visible.

STEP SIX: Press Command-A (PC: Ctrl-A) to select all your Picks, and then press Command-N on Mac (Ctrl-N on a Windows PC) as this is the keyboard shortcut for creating a New Collection (or New Album on the cloud version). When the New Collection dialog appears, name this new Collection ‘Picks’ and by default, it will save this new collection into your China Workshop Trip Collection set (pretty handy, eh?). So, now you have a Collection Set and inside are two Collections: ‘Full Shoot,’ and ‘Picks.’

STEP SEVEN: Now carefully go through these images (do the technique from earlier where you hide all the panels to see them larger) and when you come across a really good shot — one you think is worth cropping and editing and all that stuff; press the number 5 on your keyboard to mark it as a 5-star image. You’ll see it say “Set rating to 5” right onscreen when you press that number 5.

STEP EIGHT: When you’re done picking your “best of the best” shots from your shoot; go back to the top right of the Filmstrip down bottom and turn on the 5-star filter (highlight all five stars) and now in your Picks Collection, all that you will see are your Picks that marked as 5-stars. These are images you’re going to edit and work on to create final images. Press Command-A (PC: Ctrl-A) to select all your 5-star photos, and then press Command-N on Mac (Ctrl-N on a Windows PC) to create a New Collection of nothing but these 5-star images.

When the dialog appears, name this collection ‘Selects’ (as seen here), and it will automatically be saved into your China Workshop Trip’ Collection Set.

You should now have three Collections (Albums in the cloud version) inside your Collection Set: (1) Full Shoot (2) Picks (3) Selects, as seen above. In the future, when you get quick to your very best, already edited, final images from your China Workshop Trip, you’ll just go to the China Workshop Trip Collection Set and click on the Selects Collection.

TIP: Just for easy visual identification; while I’m working on these images from China, I right-click on the Collection Set and add a Yellow Color Label to this set (you can choose any color you’d like). It appears as a vertical line along the edge to the right of it (see previous capture). That way, I can easily see it stand out from all the other Collections Sets. When I’m done working on this set, I remove the Yellow color label.

That’s the workflow. Of course, when I return home, I export this Collection Set as a Catalog’ (as seen here, where I right-clicked on the Collection Set to bring up that menu) and then import it into my main catalog on my iMac where the I drag and drop the China Workshop Trip Collection Set inside my main Travel Collection Set. There ya have it!

That’s the basics of my workflow, but if you want to dig in even deeper (including backing up your photos, and your catalog, and all that stuff), I have an online class you’ll probably find really helpful. It’s called my “SLIM System” or “Simplified Lightroom Image Management” System. Check out the official trailer below:

Here’s a direct link to the course.

Hope you found all that helpful, and that it at least gets you going in the right direction.

Important Info for Tomorrow’s Worldwide Photo Walk

It’s here!!! Tomorrow, in nearly a thousand cities around the world my 12th Annual World Wide Photo Walk kicks off, and by tomorrow night collectively we will have taken literally millions of photos. How cool is that!!!! I’m up in Chicago today and I’m psyched to be leading a local photo walk here tomorrow.

If you haven’t signed up for a walk yet: go here right now – find a walk near you and sign up free! (you can be walking with us tomorrow!). Incredible prizes up for grabs this year for folks who join the optional Photo Contest, including a Canon EOS RP full-frame Mirrorless camera with a 24-105mm lens, and much more. The full list at http://worldwidephotowalk.com/prizes

Have a great weekend, everybody! Have a safe, fun, and creative Photo Walk!

-Scott

The post How I Organize & Sort My Images in Lightroom appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

In this issue, learn to create beautiful Hollywood-style portraits with bounce lighting. Plus, turn any daytime cityscape shot into a dark, moody, nighttime image; catching up with Adobe Portfolio; bringing out your inner artist with AKVIS ArtWork; and so much more.

KelbyOne Pro & Plus members have access to more than 70 back issues of Photoshop User magazine all the way back to January 2012, plus all 54 issues of Lightroom Magazine. Not a Pro member yet? Click here for more information.

The post Issue 54 of Lightroom Magazine Is Now Available appeared first on Lightroom Killer Tips.

Creating a Custom Sort Order in Lightroom Classic

This one has been around for a long while, so I figure it is a good place to start. The first thing to know about creating a custom sort order in Lightroom Classic is that you need to be in either a folder or a regular collection. You cannot create a custom sort order if you are viewing an entire collection set, a parent folder that is also displaying the contents of its subfolders, or smart collections.

While it is possible to drag and drop photos into a custom order using the Filmstrip I find it much simpler to do while viewing photos in Grid view of the Library module, so press G to jump to Grid. From there, simply click and drag a photo into the desired position in the sort, and release when you see the target space highlight (as shown below).

Creating a Custom Sort Order in the cloud-based Lightroom on mobile

Using Lightroom on a mobile device it is possible to view the custom sort order created in Lightroom Classic in a synced album (collection), or you can create a new custom sort order. Here’s how to create a custom sort order:

1. Tap the three-dot icon in the upper-right corner and choose Sort by to open the Sort By panel.
2. In the Sort By panel, tap Edit next to Custom (just tap Custom to see the pre-existing custom sort order).
3. Long-press the photo you want to move into a new position, and then drag and drop it when you see the blue highlight at the target destination.
4. Tap Done when finished to accept your changes.

It is a little finicky, but you can single-tap multiple photos to select them, then long-press one of them to drag the selected photos to a new location.

Creating a Custom Sort Order in the cloud-based Lightroom on Mac/Win

You can’t (yet).

I know, it is surprising, but hopefully this will be added soon. Until then, you can sort on mobile and choose to view the custom sort on Mac/Win. Additionally, you can jump over to lightroom.adobe.com (log in with your Adobe ID) and create a custom sort order there that will also sync with the other cloud apps. Here’s how:

1. Select the album you want to sort to view its contents.
2. Tap the Display icon (looks like an artist’s palette) at the bottom of the window.
3. Check the box on the photo thumbnail you want to move to select it.
4. Drag and drop it in the desired location when you see the blue highlight appear.
5. Tap either of the photo grid icons (next to the Display icon) to return to the thumbnail grid.
6. Refresh your browser to see the new sort order (make sure Custom is selected for sort order via the control to the right of the Display icon).

Hopefully custom sort order functionality will be added to Lightroom on Mac/Win soon. Feel free to add your voice to the feature request.

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